Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a global network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has always characterized its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their children do not want to master the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to learn these narratives and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
